Mash Infusion - Strike Water - 'Rest Schedule' Calculator Tool for Beer Brewing

Precision Mash & Strike Water Tool

Why this tool exists: Missing your mash temperature by just a few degrees changes the fundamental character of your beer, turning a crisp IPA into a heavy malt bomb (or vice versa). This calculator solves the physics of thermodynamics for you, determining exactly how hot your water needs to be to account for the cooling effect of room-temperature grain and your specific equipment.

Quick Start Guide

1Select Units (Imp/Met) • 2Input Grain Weight • 3Set Target Temp • 4Heat Water to Result

Strike Water Calculator

Precision Infusion Temperature

Grain Weight (lbs)

Water/Grain Ratio (qt/lb)

Target Mash °F

Grain Temp °F

Equipment Loss Adjustment (Advanced)

Degrees °F lost to tun

Strike Temp

163.4 °F

Heat water to this temp

Total Water

3.13

Gallons

11.8

Liters

Mash Temperature Guide

Hitting mash temperature is not a nice-to-have. It is the first big fork in the road that decides fermentability, body, foam quality, and how forgiving fermentation will be later. This tool gets you close on paper. The brewer part is how you execute dough-in, how you measure, and how you correct without turning the mash into chaos.

Calculator Assumptions

• Mash is well mixed (no dry pockets/dough balls).
• Grain temperature is measured, not guessed.
• Equipment loss is accounted for (use the input field).
• Single infusion mash (not a multi-step schedule).
• Does not replace thermometer calibration.

What Temperature Changes in Your Beer

Mash temperature is enzyme control. Beta amylase works low (simple sugars, dry beer), alpha amylase works high (complex sugars, full body).

Low: 148-152°F

• High fermentability
• Drier finish, thinner body
• Styles: Pilsner, West Coast IPA, Saison

Mid: 152-154°F

• Balanced profile
• The "Safety Zone"
• Styles: Pale Ale, Amber, Brown Ale

High: 154-158°F

• Lower fermentability
• Full mouthfeel, malty
• Styles: Stout, Porter, Hazy IPA

Ratio is Not Just Volume

• Thick (1.0): Protects enzymes, but hard to stir. The grain bed can "set" like concrete. If you brew thick (or use rye/wheat), use rice hulls to prevent a stuck sparge.
• Std (1.25): The sweet spot. Fluid enough to mix, thick enough to hold heat.
• Thin (1.5+): Easy stirring, consistent temp, but enzymes dilute slightly.
• BIAB (2.0+): Very thin. Stratification is the enemy here; stir often.

Pro Tip: Consistency beats perfection. Pick a ratio and stick to it.

The "Perfect Mash" Workflow

1. 1

   Stage Your Grain

   Bring malt inside the night before. 30°F garage grain acts like an ice cube and ruins your math.

2. 2

   Preheat the Tun

   Dump a gallon of boiling water in your cooler for 5 mins, then dump it out. Don't let the cooler steal your heat.

3. 3

   Strike & Creep

   Heat water 2°F higher than calculated. Pour in tun, stir, and wait for it to drop to the exact strike temp.

4. 4

   Dough-in Aggressively

   Pour grain slowly while whisking. Break up every dough ball. Dry grain = no sugar.

Missed your Temp?

Too Low?

Add boiling water in small amounts. Stir for 2 mins before reading again.

Too High?

Stir with lid off to vent heat. Add ice cubes only in emergencies (dilution risk).

System Mastery

• Dial in Water Chemistry. Temperature is only half the battle. If you're brewing a West Coast IPA, use Gypsum to accentuate bitterness. For rich stouts, use Calcium Chloride for a softer mouthfeel.
• Do a water-only test. Fill your tun with hot water. Wait 1 hour. Measure the drop. That is your "Equipment Loss" number forever.
• Insulation > Gear. A sleeping bag wrapped around a cooler beats a $500 stainless tun without a jacket.
• Record "Stable Mash Temp". Measure at 10 mins. If you aimed for 152 but got 150, just add 2°F to your target next time.
• Calibrate or Fail. A thermometer off by 2°F changes a Dry Stout into a Sweet Stout. Test it in ice water (32°F/0°C) and boiling water (212°F/100°C) every 5 brews.
• The pH Factor. Temperature gets the enzymes moving, but pH makes them work. If your mash efficiency is consistently low despite hitting temps, buy a pH meter. Target 5.2–5.6.
• The "Oh Sh*t" Pitcher. Always keep 2 quarts of boiling water and 2 quarts of ice water next to the tun during dough-in. Instant correction beats waiting for the kettle to heat up.
• Whisk, Don't Paddle. Dough balls are dry pockets of grain that sugar never sees. Use a giant stainless steel whisk instead of a paddle to break them up instantly.

Strike = ((0.2 / Ratio) × (Target - Grain)) + Target + Loss

© 2026 How To Homebrew Beers • Utility Series

How to calculate the percentage of alcohol in your home brew beers - ABV

Brewing beer isn’t just a science; it’s an alchemy of art, passion, and precision. As a homebrewer, one of the most transformative tools in your arsenal is the ability to understand and control gravity readings. 

These measurements are more than just numbers; they’re the story of your beer’s journey from sugary wort to an effervescent masterpiece, a narrative of transformation written in points of density.

Whether you’re brewing a robust imperial stout or a crisp summer pilsner, nailing your alcohol by volume (ABV) is critical. It defines the beer's character, its warmth, and its very identity. 

ABV Calculator - How to measure alchohol content of brewed beer

Enter your Original Gravity (OG) and Final Gravity (FG) and get an estimated alcohol percentage. Use Advanced if your readings were taken warm or you used a refractometer.

1. Enter in OG from brew day and FG once fermentation is stable (3 days of no bubbles in airlock).
2. Pick the unit you used (SG is the default).
3. Your ABV number in the orange text.

Original Gravity (OG)

Final Gravity (FG)

Units Specific Gravity (SG) Plato (°P) Brix (°Bx)

0.0% ABV

Attenuation: 0% ABW: 0.0% Mode: Quick

Tip: ABV is an estimate. For best accuracy, take hydrometer readings near its calibration temperature, or use temperature correction in Advanced.

OG used
-

FG used
-

Equation
Standard

Notes
-

Advanced options

Measurement method Hydrometer Refractometer (Brix)

Equation Standard Alternate (big beers)

Temperature units °C °F

Hydrometer calibration temp

OG sample temp (optional)

FG sample temp (optional)

If you leave OG and FG temps blank, the calculator uses your raw numbers with no temperature correction.

Wort correction factor (WCF)

What to enter

Refractometer readings after fermentation need alcohol correction. This mode treats OG and FG inputs as Brix and applies WCF plus a standard correction model.

The Brewer's Compass: Understanding Gravity

At its core, "gravity" in brewing is a measurement of the density of your wort (unfermented beer) compared to the density of water. Water has a specific gravity (SG) of 1.000. 

When we add malt and other sugars to create wort, we increase its density. This increase, measured in "gravity points," is a direct reflection of the total fermentable and unfermentable sugars available for your yeast.

The Two Most Important Numbers in Your Brewery

Every beer has a story, and these two gravity readings are the first and last chapters:

• Original Gravity (OG): Taken *before* you pitch your yeast, this is arguably the most critical measurement of your brew day. A high OG indicates a rich, sugar-heavy wort ready to ferment into a boozy powerhouse, while a lower OG suggests a lighter, more sessionable brew. It sets the absolute potential for your beer's final ABV. This number is your target for the brew day and tells you if you've successfully extracted the planned amount of sugar from your grains.
• Final Gravity (FG): Taken *after* fermentation is completely finished, this reveals how much sugar the yeast consumed and how much remains. A low FG (e.g., 1.008) indicates high yeast attenuation and a dry, crisp finish. A higher FG (e.g., 1.020) means more residual sugars are left, resulting in a sweeter, fuller-bodied beer. Checking for a stable FG over two to three days is the only reliable way to confirm that fermentation is truly complete and it's safe to bottle or keg.

Mastering Your Tools: The Hydrometer

The hydrometer is a quintessential tool in every homebrewer’s kit. This slender, glass instrument operates on Archimedes' principle, floating at a level corresponding to the density of the liquid it's in. Learning to use it with precision is a fundamental skill.

How to Take an Accurate Reading: A Step-by-Step Guide

1. Sanitize Everything: Before you begin, thoroughly sanitize your hydrometer, its testing jar (or graduated cylinder), and your "thief" or baster used for taking a sample. Any contamination in your sample can spoil your entire batch, so this step is non-negotiable, especially when taking post-fermentation readings.
2. Take a Clean Sample: Draw a sample of your wort or beer, ensuring it's free of excessive hops or trub. Fill the test jar about three-quarters full, enough for the hydrometer to float freely without touching the bottom. A sample with too much solid material will obstruct the hydrometer and lead to an inaccurate, artificially high reading.
3. Spin and Read: Gently lower the hydrometer into the liquid and give it a quick spin to dislodge any air bubbles clinging to the sides. Let it settle. Read the measurement at the bottom of the meniscus—the curved surface of the liquid. Reading at eye level is crucial to avoid parallax error and ensure you are capturing the most precise measurement possible.
4. Correct for Temperature: Hydrometers are calibrated to be accurate at a specific temperature, usually 60°F (15.6°C). If your sample is warmer (which it almost always is for an OG reading), the liquid is less dense, and your reading will be artificially low. You must use an online calculator or a formula to correct the reading to the calibration temperature. Failing to correct for temperature is one of the most common errors brewers make and can lead to a significant miscalculation of your final ABV.

The Moment of Truth: Calculating Your ABV

Calculating your beer’s ABV is a satisfying moment where science meets craft. It's the numerical proof of the transformation your yeast has performed. The standard formula used by brewers is simple yet powerful:

ABV = (OG - FG) x 131.25

For example, if your temperature-corrected OG is 1.065 and your FG is 1.015:

(1.065 - 1.015) x 131.25 = 6.56% ABV

The Brewer's Playbook: How to Control Your ABV

Want a stronger brew or a lighter session ale? You have more control than you think. Here are targeted techniques to adjust your ABV.

Techniques for Increasing ABV

• Add More Fermentables: The most direct way. Increase your base malts or add adjuncts like corn sugar, honey, or candi syrup to boost your OG. Keep in mind that simple sugars like corn sugar will ferment out completely, drying out the beer, while malt will add more body and flavor.
• Lengthen Your Boil: For all-grain brewers, boiling your wort for 90 minutes instead of 60 will evaporate more water, concentrating the sugars and raising your OG. This technique can also lead to more Maillard reactions, developing deeper color and more complex caramel or toffee notes in your wort.
• Choose a High-Attenuation Yeast: Select a yeast strain known for its ability to ferment a high percentage of sugars and tolerate higher alcohol levels, like Champagne yeast or WLP099 Super High Gravity Yeast. High attenuation means the yeast is very efficient at converting sugar to alcohol, resulting in a lower FG and thus a higher final ABV.
• Prioritize Yeast Health: For high-gravity beers (OG > 1.070), making a yeast starter, aerating your wort with pure oxygen, and adding yeast nutrients are essential for a strong, complete fermentation. Stressed yeast will stall out early, leaving your beer under-attenuated, overly sweet, and lower in alcohol than planned.

Techniques for Decreasing ABV

• Dilute Your Wort: The simplest method. Add a measured amount of sanitized, pre-boiled water to your fermenter to lower the OG before pitching yeast. This is a great way to correct an OG that came in higher than expected, allowing you to hit your target ABV with precision.
• Mash at a Higher Temperature: For all-grain brewers, mashing in the 156-160°F (69-71°C) range creates more unfermentable dextrins, leading to a higher FG, more body, and a lower ABV. This is because the beta-amylase enzyme, which creates simple fermentable sugars, is denatured at these higher temperatures, leaving more complex sugars behind.
• Choose a Low-Attenuation Yeast: Select a yeast strain, like many English ale yeasts, that is known to leave more residual sugars behind, resulting in a lower ABV and a sweeter finish. These yeasts naturally have a lower alcohol tolerance or are less efficient at fermenting complex sugars, making them perfect for styles like English Milds or Sweet Stouts.

If you wish to increase the ABV for your brews, we've got some ideas how...

How to use Camden Tablets when Homebrewing Cider

In the alchemy of brewing, few elements are as misunderstood or as critically important as oxygen. 

It is the Janus-faced god of fermentation: a vital, life-giving force in the opening moments, and a stale, flavor-destroying poison at nearly every other stage. Mastering the art of brewing is, in many ways, the art of mastering oxygen: knowing precisely when to introduce it, and when to fight relentlessly to keep it out. 

An amateur brewer makes wort; a master brewer manages oxygen.

This guide is your complete manual to this crucial variable. We will dive deep into the biochemistry of yeast respiration, explore the devastating chemical pathways of oxidation, and provide a comprehensive playbook of techniques, from simple splashing to pure oxygen injection. 

The Friend: Oxygen's Vital Role Before Fermentation

For a brief, critical window after you've chilled your wort but before active fermentation begins, oxygen is your yeast's most important nutrient. T

his is the only time your yeast performs aerobic respiration, a process essential for building a strong and healthy army for the battle ahead.

Biochemistry in the Brewhouse: The Lag Phase

When you pitch yeast into cooled wort, it enters the "lag phase." During this period, it is not producing alcohol. Instead, it is focused on reproduction and building up its health. The dissolved oxygen (DO) you introduce is the critical fuel for this phase, as the yeast uses it to synthesize essential compounds for its cell membranes:

• Sterols and Unsaturated Fatty Acids: These are the literal building blocks of strong, flexible, and healthy yeast cell walls. A robust cell membrane allows the yeast to properly manage nutrient transport, expel waste products (like alcohol), and, crucially, to tolerate the increasingly toxic, high-alcohol environment as fermentation progresses. Think of it as giving your soldiers proper armor before sending them into battle.
• Yeast Reproduction: With strong cell walls, the yeast can bud and multiply effectively, often quadrupling its population. Building a large, healthy colony is the key to fermenting the wort quickly and cleanly. Insufficient oxygen leads to a smaller, weaker yeast population that struggles, resulting in slow or "stuck" fermentations and the production of off-flavors like acetaldehyde (green apple) and fusel alcohols (hot, solvent-like).

Brewer's Insight: The High-Gravity Connection

The higher the Original Gravity (and thus the potential ABV) of your beer, the more critical proper aeration becomes. Alcohol is toxic to yeast, and a strong cell membrane is its only defense. 

For high-gravity beers like Imperial Stouts or Barleywines, a target of 12-15+ ppm of dissolved oxygen is essential for ensuring the yeast can survive the high-alcohol environment and fully attenuate the beer, preventing a cloyingly sweet final product.

The Foe: The Dangers of Oxygen at the Wrong Time

Once fermentation begins and your yeast switches to anaerobic (oxygen-free) respiration, oxygen switches from friend to mortal enemy.

 Any introduction of oxygen from this point forward is known as oxidation, a cascade of chemical reactions that will permanently and irreversibly damage your finished beer.

Hot-Side Aeration (HSA): The Cardboard Time-Bomb

This occurs if you splash or agitate your wort while it is still hot (above 80°F or 27°C), such as during the transfer from the kettle to the fermenter before it's fully chilled. At high temperatures, oxygen eagerly binds with lipids and melanoidins in the wort, creating unstable compounds. 

Over weeks or months of storage, these compounds break down and create trans-2-nonenal, the specific chemical that produces the unmistakable stale, papery, or "wet cardboard" flavor in beer. 

The damage is a time-bomb set on brew day that only goes off in the finished package.

Post-Fermentation Oxidation: The Flavor Thief

Introducing oxygen after fermentation is even more immediately damaging. The protective layer of CO2 created by the yeast is gone, and the delicate flavor and aroma compounds you've spent weeks cultivating are left exposed. 

This leads to a rapid staling of the beer, manifesting in several ways:

• Muted Hop Aroma: The first casualty. The volatile compounds from your expensive whirlpool and dry hop additions are fragile and are quickly destroyed by oxygen, leaving your IPA smelling dull and malty.
• Development of Off-Flavors: Oxidation creates sweet, sherry-like, nutty, or honey-like flavors that are inappropriate for most styles. Rich malt flavors turn into a cloying, dull sweetness.
• Visual Changes: Oxygen can cause browning of the beer's color and contribute to permanent haze as polyphenols bind together.

The Brewer's Playbook: Mastering Aeration & Oxygen Avoidance

The golden rule is simple: Aerate vigorously when the wort is cold, and avoid it obsessively at all other times.

Low-Tech Aeration Methods ("Good")

These methods aim to saturate your wort with oxygen from the atmosphere, which has a theoretical maximum of about 8 ppm (parts per million) in standard gravity wort.

• Vigorous Shaking: Seal your fermenter and shake it like crazy for 5 minutes. It's effective but physically demanding and less repeatable than other methods.
• Splashing/Cascading: As you transfer your chilled wort from your kettle to your fermenter, let it splash! This is a simple and effective way to incorporate air.
• Whisking: Use a large, sanitized stainless steel whisk to vigorously whip the surface of your cold wort for 5-10 minutes. This creates a vortex and effectively introduces a good amount of oxygen.

High-Tech Aeration Methods ("Better" and "Best")

• Aeration Stone with a Pump ("Better"): Using an aquarium-style pump with a sanitized diffusion stone (0.5-2 micron) can achieve 8-10 ppm. Crucially, you must place a sanitary 0.2 micron inline filter between the pump and the stone. Failure to do so turns your pump into a microbe cannon, injecting airborne contaminants directly into your wort.
• Pure Oxygen Injection ("Best"): This is the most effective and efficient method. Using a small tank of pure oxygen, a regulator, and a diffusion stone, you can fully saturate your wort with 12-15+ ppm of dissolved oxygen in as little as 60-90 seconds. This is the gold standard for high-gravity brewing and ensuring clean, fast fermentations every time.

Pro-Tip: Avoiding Post-Fermentation Oxidation

Once fermentation starts, your new mantra is "no splashing." 

Use an auto-siphon for all transfers and keep the end of the tubing below the surface of the liquid you're transferring into. 

For ultimate protection, learn to perform closed transfers, using CO2 pressure to move beer from one sanitized, purged vessel (like a carboy) to another (like a keg) without it ever touching the air.

While fermentation will still occur without proactive aeration, understanding and managing oxygen is a hallmark of a skilled brewer. 

By providing your yeast with the oxygen it needs during the lag phase, you promote a strong, healthy fermentation that leads to cleaner flavors and better attenuation. 

And by diligently protecting your beer from oxygen at all other times, you preserve its delicate aromas and ensure its long-term stability.

Treat oxygen as the powerful tool it is, a friend to your yeast, a foe to your finished beer, and you will unlock a new level of control and consistency in your brewing journey.

How to Carbonate Home Brewed Beer

There's no feeling quite like it: the satisfying psst as you open a bottle of your own homebrew, the gentle hiss as you pour it into a glass, and the sight of a perfect, stable head crowning your creation. That fizz, that sparkle, that lively tingle on your tongue - that's carbonation.

And getting it right is what separates good homebrew from great homebrew.

For many brewers, this final step is a black box filled with anxiety.

Will it be flat?

Will I create dangerous "bottle bombs"?

How do I even start with kegging?

Relax.

This guide will demystify the entire process. We'll explore the science of how beer gets its bubbles, then walk you through the two primary methods: the classic art of bottle conditioning and the powerful upgrade of kegging. By the end, you'll have the confidence to achieve perfect carbonation, every single time.

The Two Paths to Carbonation

Kegging vs. Bottle Conditioning: A Quick Comparison

Feature	Bottle Conditioning	Kegging (Force Carbonation)
Time to Drink	2-4 weeks	24 hours to 1 week
Initial Cost	Low	High
Effort	High on bottling day	Low
Consistency	Variable	Very Consistent
Clarity	Yeast sediment present	Crystal-clear possible
Portability	Excellent	Challenging

The Science of Fizz: What is Carbonation?

Getting CO2 into your beer is a dance between temperature and pressure, governed by a scientific principle called Henry's Law. In simple terms, it states that the amount of a gas (like CO2) that can dissolve in a liquid (like beer) is directly proportional to the pressure of that gas over the liquid.

 Colder liquids can also hold more dissolved gas.

We measure carbonation in "Volumes of CO2." One volume of CO2 is one liter of carbon dioxide gas dissolved in one liter of beer. Different beer styles have different target carbonation levels:

• British Ales (Cask Ale): 1.5 - 2.0 Vols
• American Pale Ales & IPAs: 2.2 - 2.7 Vols
• German Wheat Beers (Hefeweizen): 3.5 - 4.5 Vols

Method 1: The Classic Art of Bottle Conditioning

This is the traditional, time-honoured way to carbonate beer. It’s how every homebrewer starts, and it’s a craft in its own right.

Step-by-Step Guide to Bottling Day

You can either prime your wort with sugar or use carbonation drops.

1. Ensure Fermentation is Complete: Use your hydrometer to take a gravity reading. Wait two days and take another. If the reading is identical, your yeast is done, preventing the risk of "bottle bombs."
2. Calculate Your Priming Sugar: Use a reliable online priming sugar calculator. You'll need your exact batch volume, the highest fermentation temperature, and your target CO2 volume.
3. Prepare the Sugar Solution: Boil your calculated priming sugar in a cup of water for 5 minutes. This sanitizes it and ensures it will mix evenly into your beer.
4. Transfer and Mix: Gently pour the cooled sugar solution into a sanitized bottling bucket. Carefully rack your beer on top, allowing the motion to mix everything without splashing.
5. Fill and Cap: Using a bottling wand, fill your sanitized bottles to about an inch from the top to leave crucial headspace. Cap each one securely.
6. Wait: Store the bottles in a dark place at room temperature (around 20-22°C / 68-72°F) for at least two weeks for the yeast to naturally carbonate the beer.

Pros of Bottle Conditioning

• ✔Inexpensive Start: Requires minimal equipment beyond what comes in a starter kit.
• ✔Highly Portable: It's easy to grab a few bottles to share with friends.
• ✔Flavor Maturation: Bottle conditioning allows certain beer styles to develop complex flavors over time.

Cons of Bottle Conditioning

• ✖Time-Consuming: Cleaning, filling, and capping 50 bottles is a significant chore.
• ✖Yeast Sediment: A layer of yeast (lees) is unavoidable at the bottom of each bottle.
• ✖Inconsistent Carbonation: It's easy to get slightly different carbonation levels from bottle to bottle.

The Science of Bottle Conditioning

Inside each sealed bottle, a mini-fermentation occurs. The dormant yeast consumes the priming sugar and produces CO2.

With nowhere to go, this gas is forced to dissolve into the beer, creating natural carbonation.

Method 2: The Upgrade to Kegging

Force carbonating is the fast lane to finished beer. By using a tank of CO2, you take direct control of the process, bypassing the yeast entirely.

How to Force Carbonate

There are two primary methods for force carbonating:

1. The "Set and Forget" Method (1-2 Weeks): This is the easiest and most reliable way. Chill your keg, connect the gas, and set the regulator to your target pressure based on a carbonation chart (below). The beer will slowly absorb the CO2 over a week or two.
2. The "Burst Carbonate" Method (24-48 Hours): For the impatient brewer. Chill your keg, then apply a much higher pressure (e.g., 30-40 PSI) for 12-24 hours. After this period, you must vent the excess pressure and turn the regulator down to your target serving pressure (usually 10-12 PSI).

Pros of Kegging

• ✔Extremely Fast: Go from fermented beer to a carbonated pint in as little as 24 hours.
• ✔Precise Control: You can dial in the exact carbonation level for any beer style.
• ✔No Sediment: Beer served from a keg is crystal clear, with no yeast at the bottom of your glass.

Cons of Kegging

• ✖High Initial Cost: Kegs, a CO2 tank, regulator, and a fridge or kegerator are a significant investment.
• ✖Requires Space: You need a dedicated fridge or chest freezer for your keg setup.
• ✖Potential for Gas Leaks: A poorly sealed connection can drain your CO2 tank overnight.

Force Carbonation Chart (PSI)

Use this chart for the "Set and Forget" method. Find your kegerator's temperature and your target CO2 volume to determine the correct PSI setting.

Temp (°F/°C)	2.2 Vols	2.4 Vols	2.6 Vols
38°F / 3°C	9.4	11.7	14.1
40°F / 4°C	10.3	12.7	15.1
42°F / 6°C	11.2	13.7	16.2

Frequently Asked Questions

How long should I store my bottle-conditioned beer before drinking?

The baseline is two weeks at room temperature for the yeast to carbonate, followed by at least 48 hours in the fridge.

Many beers, especially bigger, darker styles, will continue to mature and improve in the bottle for months.

Can I re-carbonate flat beer?

In bottles, it's very difficult. In a keg, however, it's incredibly easy! Simply reconnect your gas line, check for leaks, and re-apply pressure using the "Set and Forget" method.

What's the best way to store my carbonated homebrew?

Once carbonation + conditioning is complete, cold is king. Store all your beer, whether in bottles or a keg, in a cool place - or even the refrigerator to preserve the fresh flavours and slow down staling.

What is this layer of gunk at the bottom of my bottle?

That is the yeast sediment, or "lees," and it's a completely normal part of bottle conditioning. Pour carefully into a glass, leaving the last half-inch of liquid and the yeast behind in the bottle.

Help, my bottles are gushing foam! How do I fix over-carbonation?

This is usually caused by too much priming sugar or bottling before fermentation was finished. Get all the bottles into the fridge immediately. To salvage the beer, carefully open each bottle to vent some pressure before re-capping it. You may need to do this a few times over a few days.

It could also be an infected beer batch. You'll need to do a taste and smell test.

Can I use table sugar or honey to prime my beer?

Yes, but be precise. Table sugar (sucrose) is slightly more fermentable than corn sugar (dextrose), so you'll need about 10% less. Honey and maple syrup also work but can add their own flavours and can give the beer a drier taste / mouthfeel. For consistent results, sticking to dextrose is recommended for beginners.