Beerstone: How to remove and prevent it from occuring

Every brewer, whether amateur or professional, is well-acquainted with the challenges that come with maintaining brewing equipment. One such challenge is the pesky formation of beerstone. This stubborn substance can compromise the quality of the brew and pose sanitation issues. Let's delve deep into understanding beerstone and provide effective methods to eliminate it from brewing equipment.

What is Beerstone? A Deeper Dive into the Science

Beerstone, scientifically known as calcium oxalate, is a milky-white or sometimes brownish deposit that forms on brewing equipment over time. It's a combination of minerals, primarily calcium and magnesium salts, and organic compounds left over from the brewing process. If left untreated, beerstone can harbor microorganisms, jeopardizing the quality and safety of the brew.

The formation of beerstone is a classic example of precipitation chemistry. Oxalic acid, naturally present in malt, reacts with calcium ions found in the brewing water and the malt itself. This reaction forms calcium oxalate, a salt with very low solubility in water, especially under certain conditions. The chemical equation for this reaction is: $Ca^{2+}(aq) + C_{2}O_{4}^{2-}(aq) \rightarrow CaC_{2}O_{4}(s)$. The presence of proteins and other organic molecules in the wort acts as a "binder," helping the calcium oxalate crystals adhere to surfaces and creating a tenacious, difficult-to-remove scale.

Several factors can influence the rate of beerstone formation:

• Water Chemistry: Hard water, with its higher concentration of calcium and magnesium ions, is more prone to beerstone formation.
• Mash pH: The pH of the mash and wort can affect the solubility of calcium oxalate.
• Temperature: Temperature fluctuations during the brewing process, especially the rapid cooling of the wort, can cause calcium oxalate to precipitate out of solution.

Why is Beerstone a Concern for Brewers?

Beerstone is more than just an aesthetic issue; it's a serious concern for any brewer who values quality, consistency, and safety. Here's a more in-depth look at the problems it can cause:

• Sanitation Issues: The rough, porous surface of beerstone provides an ideal breeding ground for bacteria and wild yeast. These unwanted microorganisms can hide in the microscopic nooks and crannies of the beerstone, protected from routine cleaning and sanitizing procedures. This can lead to cross-contamination between batches, resulting in off-flavors, spoilage, and even potential health risks.
• Equipment Integrity: Over time, beerstone can cause significant damage to your brewing equipment. The buildup of this scale can lead to pitting and corrosion of stainless steel surfaces, reducing the lifespan of your expensive tanks, kettles, and other equipment.
• Inconsistent Brews: The presence of beerstone can interfere with the brewing process in several ways. It can act as a nucleation site, causing excessive foaming and gushing in the finished beer. It can also alter the flavor profile of your beer, leading to inconsistent batches and a product that doesn't meet your standards.

Effective Methods to Remove Beerstone: A Brewer's Guide

While beerstone can be a stubborn foe, it's not invincible. With the right knowledge and a consistent cleaning regimen, you can keep your equipment pristine and your beer delicious. Here's a step-by-step guide to effective beerstone removal:

1. Routine Cleaning: The First Line of Defense

The best way to deal with beerstone is to prevent it from building up in the first place. A thorough cleaning after every brew is essential. Use a high-quality, brewery-approved alkaline cleaner to remove organic soils like proteins and hop resins. Scrub all surfaces with a non-abrasive pad, paying close attention to hard-to-reach areas. This will remove the "binder" that helps beerstone adhere to surfaces.

2. The Power of Acids: Dissolving the Mineral Scale

For existing beerstone buildup, an acidic cleaner is your best weapon. Phosphoric acid and nitric acid are both highly effective at dissolving the calcium oxalate that makes up the bulk of beerstone. These acids work by breaking down the mineral scale and allowing it to be easily rinsed away. When using acidic cleaners, always follow the manufacturer's instructions for dilution and contact time. Be sure to wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including gloves and eye protection, as these acids can be corrosive.

3. Specialized Beerstone Removers: A Targeted Approach

For tough, built-up beerstone, a specialized beerstone remover may be necessary. These products are formulated with a blend of acids, surfactants, and chelating agents that work together to break down and remove even the most stubborn deposits. They are often designed for specific applications, such as cleaning-in-place (CIP) systems, and can be a valuable tool in any brewer's arsenal.

4. Prevention is Key: Keeping Beerstone at Bay

Once your equipment is free of beerstone, you'll want to keep it that way. Here are some preventative measures you can take:

• Water Treatment: If you have hard water, consider using a water softener or reverse osmosis (RO) system to reduce the mineral content of your brewing water.
• Regular Acid Washing: Incorporate a regular acid wash into your cleaning regimen. This will help to prevent the buildup of beerstone and keep your equipment in top condition.
• Passivation: After cleaning with an acidic cleaner, it's a good idea to passivate your stainless steel equipment. This process creates a protective layer on the surface of the steel that helps to prevent corrosion and beerstone formation.

Safety First: A Brewer's Responsibility

When using chemical agents to clean brewing equipment, it's paramount to prioritize safety. Always:

• Wear protective gloves and eyewear.
• Ensure adequate ventilation in the cleaning area.
• Thoroughly rinse equipment after cleaning to remove any residual chemicals.
• Store cleaning agents out of reach of children and pets.

Conclusion: A Clean Brewery is a Successful Brewery

Beerstone is an inevitable challenge faced by brewers. However, with consistent cleaning, preventive measures, and the right cleaning agents, it's a challenge that can be efficiently tackled. By keeping brewing equipment free of beerstone, brewers can ensure the production of high-quality, consistent, and safe brews. Remember, a clean brewery is a successful brewery. Happy brewing!

The Ultimate Guide to No-Rinse Sanitizers for Beer Brewing Equipment

In the world of brewing, there is one absolute, unshakeable truth: you are a janitor first, and a brewer second. Sanitization is not merely a step in the process; it is the absolute cornerstone of quality assurance. 

A single oversight can lead to devastating microbial contamination from bacteria like Lactobacillus (souring), Pediococcus (buttery off-flavors), or wild yeasts like Brettanomyces (funky, barnyard notes), turning your masterpiece into an undrinkable mess.

The advent of 'no-rinse' sanitizers revolutionized this practice. They offer a convenient, highly effective way to ensure your beer or wine remains untainted, saving time and water while, most importantly, eliminating the risk of re-contaminating your equipment with non-sterile rinse water. 

This guide is a deep dive into the science of these essential tools, helping you understand how they work and how to choose the right one for your brewery.

The Golden Rule: You MUST Clean Before You Sanitize

The concept of 'no-rinse' sanitizers is rooted in a fundamental principle that cannot be overstated. You must clean before you sanitize. These are two distinct, sequential processes:

• CLEANING: This is the physical removal of all visible dirt, grime, krausen rings, and hop residue (known as "soil"). Cleaners like PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash) are designed to break down these organic materials. Sanitizers are ineffective on dirty surfaces because the microbes can hide underneath the soil.
• SANITIZING: This is the chemical process of reducing the population of invisible microorganisms (bacteria, wild yeast, molds) to a safe, negligible level. Sanitizers work on a microscopic level and can only be effective on a surface that is already physically clean.

No-rinse sanitizers are formulated to kill these microbes effectively and then break down into harmless, flavor-neutral substances that do not need to be rinsed away. This is a significant advantage over sanitizers like bleach, which can leave behind chlorophenols, a compound that creates a notorious medicinal or plastic-like off-flavor in beer.

The Contenders: Choosing Your Sanitizer

Star San: The Industry Standard Unveiled

Star San has carved a niche for itself as the reliable and effective sanitizer in the brewing community for clear scientific reasons. It employs a powerful two-pronged attack.

• Acid Attack: Its primary active ingredient is phosphoric acid, which drastically lowers the pH of the solution to a level below 3.0. This highly acidic environment instantly disrupts the cell walls of most microorganisms, killing them on contact.
• Surfactant Power: The second ingredient, dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid, is a surfactant. It breaks the surface tension of the water, allowing the acidic solution to spread into microscopic scratches, pores, and crevices on your equipment where microbes love to hide. This is what creates Star San's characteristic foam, which is just as effective as the liquid, making it excellent for sanitizing the inside of tubes, taps, and carboy necks.

Pro-Tip: Don't Fear the Foam!

New brewers are often terrified of the foam Star San leaves behind. Don't be! When used at the correct concentration (one ounce per 5 gallons of water), the solution breaks down into harmless phosphate and sulfate ions, which are flavorless and can even be used as nutrients by your yeast in trace amounts. The foam is your friend; it's a sign that the sanitizer is reaching every nook and cranny.

Iodophor: The Medical-Grade Option Explored

Iodophor is another highly effective no-rinse sanitizer that works on a different principle. It's an iodine-based sanitizer that kills microbes through oxidation, essentially denaturing their cellular proteins and fatty acids. It has a broad kill spectrum, effective against bacteria, yeast, and molds.

Using Iodophor Correctly

• Pros: Highly effective, relatively inexpensive, and the amber color provides a visual indicator of its effectiveness (if the color fades, it's no longer active).
• Cons: It can stain plastic equipment (like buckets and tubing) a brownish color over time, although this is purely cosmetic. More importantly, it requires a longer contact time—at least two minutes—to be fully effective, compared to Star San's 30 seconds.
• Dosage: Typically used at a concentration of 12.5 to 25 ppm, which usually translates to about one tablespoon per 5 gallons of water (always follow the manufacturer's instructions).

Choosing the right no-rinse sanitizer is a critical step in ensuring the quality and consistency of your brew. While both Star San and Iodophor are excellent choices, Star San's speed, foaming action, and reusability have made it the industry standard for a reason. Whichever you choose, remember the golden rule: clean first, then sanitize. By embracing this mantra and using your sanitizer correctly, you are protecting your investment of time, effort, and passion, and guaranteeing that every beer you brew has the best possible chance for greatness.

How to save time and make beer bottling easier

Bottling beer is indeed one of the more labor-intensive aspects of homebrewing. The meticulous process of cleaning, sanitizing, filling, and capping can be time-consuming, but it's crucial for ensuring the quality of the final product. 

For those who aren’t ready to make the leap to kegging, due to either scale or expense, optimizing the bottling process is essential. Let’s explore five methods to streamline this process and get your beer bottled more efficiently.

1. Mass Sanitization in a Large Container

Sanitizing is non-negotiable in brewing. To sanitize a large batch of bottles at once, use a sizable container, like a plastic washing basket. Fill it with water, add a cleaner like sodium percarbonate, which is no-rinse, and immerse your bottles. This method not only saves time but also ensures that each bottle is sanitized. For a 23-liter batch, a 30 or 35-liter bucket will suffice to accommodate all the bottles you’ll need.

2. Batch Priming

Batch priming is a method where you mix the total amount of priming sugar with the entire batch before bottling, rather than adding sugar to each individual bottle. This technique not only saves time but also minimizes the mess typically associated with sugar handling during bottling. It's a straightforward process that requires some calculations to determine the right amount of sugar needed, taking into account the type of beer and desired carbonation level.

3. Sugar Measurement for Priming

The quantity of sugar needed varies with the type of beer. Lager beers generally require more sugar to achieve higher carbonation compared to ales. Here are some commonly used measurements for a 23-liter batch:

• Dextrose (Corn sugar): 3/4 cup or 4 or 5 oz / 95 grams
• Cane sugar: 2/3 cup or 3.8 - 4.8 oz / 86 grams
• Dry Malt Extract: 130 grams

For different volumes, it’s advisable to use a priming calculator to get the precise measurement.

4. Utilizing a Bottling Wand

A bottling wand simplifies the filling process. Attached to your tap, it allows for a controlled flow of beer into the bottle, minimizing oxygen exposure. The wand’s valve opens when the wand is pressed against the bottom of the bottle and closes when lifted, preventing spills and the need to constantly open and close the tap.

5. Choosing the Right Capping Tool

When it comes to capping, you have two main tools: the handheld capper and the bench capper. The handheld capper, like the universal Rigamonti or the Red Baron, is portable and easy to use. However, applying too much force can cause the bottle to break or make it difficult to remove the capper. 

The bench capper, on the other hand, offers a more stable capping process with a simple lever action, and it’s advisable to choose one that accommodates various bottle sizes.

Post-Bottling: Beer Conditioning

Once bottled, beer needs to condition. The conditioning environment should have a consistent temperature, with ales preferring cooler conditions and lagers tolerating slightly warmer ones. The location within your home matters, with central areas typically being cooler. Avoid direct sunlight and excessive heat, and after at least three weeks of rest, chill your beer before enjoying it.

By implementing these methods, you can greatly reduce the time and effort involved in the bottling phase of brewing. Not only does this make the process more enjoyable, but it also allows for greater focus on the quality and flavor of the beer, which is, after all, the ultimate goal of homebrewing.

Plastic or Glass Fermenting Drums? The Age-old Debate

Ah, the great fermenter debate that has been bubbling up in home brewing communities worldwide! With passionate arguments on both sides, it's clear that the choice between using plastic or glass fermenters isn't as simple as it seems. 

Let's delve into the intricacies of this matter.

Plastic Fermenters: The Common Choice for beer makers

1. The Infection Argument

Many naysayers point out the potential for infection when using plastic fermenters, a concern rooted in the idea that plastic is more susceptible to scratches that can become hiding spots for bacteria. On the surface, this seems like a valid concern. After all, the logic is straightforward: scratches can house bacteria, leading to a higher risk of contaminating the beer.

However, one's personal experience, combined with the vast number of successful brews from plastic fermenters worldwide, challenges this notion. If you've been brewing with plastic and have rarely, if ever, encountered an infection, then you've already debunked this myth based on personal experience.

2. Maintenance and Care

The key to preventing infections, irrespective of the fermenter material, lies in meticulous cleaning and sanitization. Every seasoned home brewer understands the paramount importance of cleanliness in the brewing process. And it's not just about avoiding infections; it's about ensuring the flavor, aroma, and overall quality of the beer remains top-notch.

Using cleaning agents like sodium percarbonate or the ever-popular PBW can make a world of difference. And of course, never underestimate the power of boiling water to eliminate any lurking microbes.

3. Cost and Durability

Plastic fermenters have another ace up their sleeve – affordability. Glass carboys, while durable and long-lasting, are notably more expensive. For budding brewers taking their first steps into the world of home brewing, plastic drums offer a more budget-friendly and less fragile alternative.

Glass Fermenters: The Traditionalist's Choice

1. Oxygen and Aging Concerns

While plastic fermenters are widely used, there's a particular aspect where glass might have the upper hand: aging. Beer, especially during its brewing process, prefers minimal exposure to oxygen. Excessive O2 can alter the beer's flavor profile and even promote the growth of unwanted microorganisms.

Some argue that plastic is more permeable to oxygen than glass. But is this difference substantial enough to impact the final product? 

Most oxygen exchange, in reality, happens through the bung and airlock, not the vessel's walls.

2. Secondary Fermentation and Barrel-aging Effects

If you're looking to age your brew or impart specific characteristics, like those from barrel aging, glass carboys for secondary fermentation might be worth considering. However, this transfer process itself can introduce oxygen, a paradoxical challenge that brewers must navigate.

The debate between plastic and glass fermenters is a testament to the intricate and nuanced world of home brewing. Both materials have their merits and potential drawbacks, but the choice ultimately boils down to the brewer's preference, experience, and brewing goals.

What remains universally true, however, is the need for stringent hygiene practices and a deep understanding of the brewing process. Whether you're a novice brewer starting with a plastic drum or a seasoned pro with a collection of glass carboys, the journey of brewing is filled with learning, experimentation, and of course, some delicious beer!

Using Campden tablets combat infection when brewing cider

The 'Old School' Secret to Better-Tasting Beer

In the world of brewing, Campden tablets have long been revered as an 'old school' method to enhance the quality of beer. But what makes these tablets so special? 

Let's delve deep into the fascinating world of Campden tablets and their multifaceted uses in brewing.

Understanding Campden Tablets: The Super Pill of Brewing

At first glance, one might wonder if Campden tablets are some kind of super pill. Their primary components are potassium metabisulfite or sodium metabisulfite. Their primary function? To react with chlorine (or chloramine) when added to beer, cider, or wine, effectively removing it from the solution.

The best part? This entire process takes place without imparting any unwanted flavors to the beverage.

• Dosage and Application: How Many Campden Tablets Should I Use? For this purpose, 16 tablets per gallon are recommended.
• Removing Chlorine from Water: Half a tablet for every 5 to 6 gallons is sufficient, breaking down the chlorine in under 10 minutes.
• Stabilizing Apple Juice for Cider Production: One crushed tablet per gallon of juice is ideal. Remember to wait for approximately 24 hours before introducing the yeast.
• Combatting Infection in Cider or Wine: In cases of infections, 1 or 2 crushed tablets can be dissolved in the product. It's worth noting that the success of this method can vary.

Safety Concerns: Are Campden Tablets Safe to Use?

Absolutely. Over the years, these tablets have proved to be safe for consumption. A common query revolves around the release of sulfur dioxide. While it's true that sulfur dioxide is introduced into the water, its concentration diminishes massively by the time the beer is consumed, ensuring that the beer remains safe to drink.

Campden Tablets and Cider Production: A Crucial Relationship

Cider producers are well-acquainted with the threat of acetobacter bacteria contamination. Fortunately, while yeast remains resistant to Campden tablets, acetobacter is not, making these tablets a vital tool in cider production.

The Role of Campden Tablets in Wine Production

Campden tablets serve dual purposes in wine production:

• Preventing Bacterial Growth: They deter stray bacteria from affecting the wine.
• Acting as an Anti-Oxidizing Agent: Especially useful when transferring wine between containers, ensuring that any oxygen introduced is effectively neutralized.

Debunking Myths: Can Campden Tablets Halt Fermentation?

Contrary to popular belief, Campden tablets cannot be used to stop the fermentation process in wine or beer. Attempting to do so would require an excessive amount of tablets, rendering the beverage undrinkable.

A Glimpse into History: The Origins of Campden Tablets

The story of Campden tablets dates back to the 1920s when the solution was developed by the Fruit and Vegetable Preserving Research Station in 'Chipping Campden', England. Its popularity soared when the Boots UK pharmacy chain introduced it in tablet form.

To Use or Not to Use: Are Campden Tablets Essential for Brewing?

The decision to use Campden tablets is subjective and depends on individual preferences and regional water quality. In places with high chlorine content, like Havelock North, New Zealand, the tablets come highly recommended. However, there are alternative methods available for those who opt against them, such as active carbon filters for removing chlorine and chloramine, and other sanitizing agents like sodium percarbonate and Powdered Brewery Wash for equipment sterilization.